We were at the mall and my friend had to take her daughter to the potty, so I was standing outside a store with Abby. I saw the men approaching and had an idea it was Mutawa. I had been told they wear the traditional white throbe and head gear without the cords. They have the longer beards as well. Also, I have been told that in order to speak or confront a western woman, they must have a police officer with them.
I was talking and playing with Abby when I heard, "M'am, M'am." I looked up and knew right away. My first thought was great, please do not start yelling and scare my child. But he was very nice. He and the police officer stopped and turned, not looking directly at me of course.
"Please M'am, cover your head, you are in Saudi Arabia."
Well, I had a red scarf on a black abaya around my neck so it was pretty obvious I had something to cover with. He was very polite, nice and spoke in a quiet tone so I obliged.
I am in their country and although I don't HAVE to cover, I just feel that when in Rome. I would want someone to cover themselves in the US if they were wearing something too revealing or offensive around my child, and although I know it seems strange, to some, showing the hair is offensive and scandalous. I've been told first hand that some people feel that westerners showing their hair is almost like the women being naked to them. It's just too revealing. So out of respect for their culture and customs, I have no problem covering when asked, especially in a polite manner.
The man turned and said, "Thank you," and continued on.
Now in the same sense, I've seen them and they say nothing, so I guess it's hit or miss. I know everyone has different experiences, but I thought he was very nice, respectful and I am in their country. I knew coming in that there are different traditions and customs. I just feel, personally that it's right to respect their culture and customs while living there.
I think if you try and be respectful, keep the abaya traditional with a majority of black, long enough to touch the floor, and keep it buttoned (which is a challenge especially with a 3 year old), they are less likely to say anything. I know women who have see them and been in Yanbu years, and never been approached, but they also seem to be more traditional in their dress as well - not showing too much neck or too much color. Also, refusing or arguing I think makes it worse. Everyone gets upset and it can turn ugly. I do know women who walk away, and that's ok, they cannot touch a woman, just speak and then cannot look directly at them. As a western woman you do not HAVE to cover your head by law, but still I just think it's the polite thing to do in respect to their customs and traditions. We are required by law to wear an abaya that covers, so there's no arguing that.
It all comes down to our final decision to move in the first place. We made the decision to enter their country and so it's only natural we should respect and follow their traditions. Remembering this is our "temporary home" and we are just visiting, we just learn to go with the flow and embrace the experiences as part of life in Saudi.
Just a little information I pulled from Wilkepedia on Mutawa:
The mutaween (Arabic: المطوعين، مطوعية muṭawwiʿīn, muṭawwiʿiyyah) are the government-authorized or government-recognized religious police (or clerical police) of Saudi Arabia. They are also religious-policing organizations in Islamic countries like Saudi Arabia and the former Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan with at least some government recognition or deference which enforce varied interpretations of Sharia law.